Ultimate 3-day itinerary for Paris

I go to Paris as often as I can. I think I’ve been about 10 times now, maybe more. I always get requests from friends and family on what to do there, where to eat and drink and what to see, and I thought with the Olympics happening now and all eyes on Paris, it would be best to throw all my recommendations into one comprehensive weekend itinerary for you too.

To start off, I’ve laid out the first day’s recommendations at a gentle pace to help you get your bearings. As the days progress, the itinerary unfolds with more activities in popular neighborhoods and also in the lesser-visited corners of Paris that truly belong to Parisians. But before we get to the fun stuff, here are some things to consider ahead of booking your trip.

• When to arrive: If you can, arrive on Thursday and stay for three days (many museums, shops and restaurants close on Sunday and Monday).
• How to get from the airport: Take the train directly from Charles de Gaule to Gard de Nord station. Once there, hop on a Metro, taxi or bus to get to your accommodation.
• Getting around town: The quickest way to get around Paris is the Metro and RER trains. Use the RATP, IDF Mobilités and SNCF apps for journey planning. The cheapest way to travel is with the Navigo Easy card, which you can download for free via the RATP app and use it as contactless pay or purchase the card at Metro, RER stations and RATP outlets. Biking is another great way to get around, especially since Paris has recently expanded its extensive network of cycling lanes. You can rent bikes by the hour or at a fixed daily or weekly rate from various operators like Paris à vélo, Rentabike Paris, Vélib and more.
• Where to stay: If it’s your first time in Paris, stay in the Marais, where you’ll be within walking distance of major museums. For repeat visitors, try anywhere in the 11th arrondissement, Canal St Martin or Belleville. These areas feel very lived-in and fun, and they’re home to some of the best restaurants in Paris. I usually go to Belleville and stay at Babel.
• What to pack: Your checklist is right here.

Thursday: Latin Quarter, Ile de Paris, Charonne

Morning: Start your day with a visit to Mokonuts Bakery for a coffee and sweet treat. It’s a tiny, bustling cafe just off Rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine that is well-loved by locals for its irresistibly chewy cookies in flavors like miso-sesame, olive-white chocolate and coconut-Aosa (dried seaweed), but you can keep it simple with peanut butter and chocolate chip too. 

How to spend the day: Stroll across the Seine to the Latin Quarter, one of Paris’s oldest neighborhoods, to browse the bouquinistes (open-air booksellers that have lined the riverbanks since the 19th century) en route to Shakespeare and Company, the iconic English-language bookshop. Entering feels like stepping back in time to an older, quieter Paris, despite the constant flow of visitors. What I love about this bookshop is that you’re encouraged to linger, so find a cozy chair to peruse your book selections—preferably near wherever the resident cat is napping. 

From there, walk to Notre Dame (which will be fully open to visitors by December 2024) or take a short stroll to Conciergerie. Most of us know it as the place where Marie-Antoinette and other prisoners of the Revolution spent their final days, but Conciergerie is also home to Europe’s largest surviving medieval hall, Salle des Gens d’Armes, which regularly hosts art, culture and history exhibitions. If it’s a sunny day, head next door to the tiny chapel of Sainte-Chapelle to see the world’s largest collection of 13th-century stained glass sparkle in the sunshine.

Dinner: Recommending Septime, one of my favorite restaurants in Paris, is a bit of a gamble. The issue isn’t the food (which is sublime), but rather the fact that they don’t take reservations and it’s always busy. You might get lucky on the night, but if not, add your name to the waiting list and pop over to their beautiful wine bar next door, Septime La Cave, until they call you. If you really don’t want to wait, consider Bistrot Paul Bert (five minutes away), where you can make a reservation in advance to enjoy straight ahead classics like steak frites.

Friday: Marais, Oberkampf

Morning: Kick off your day early with a stroll through the Marais to admire the beautifully preserved medieval and Renaissance styles of buildings like the 17th-century Place des Vosges and the Picasso Museum in the Hôtel Salé. For breakfast, grab a coffee and the divine cacio e pepe sandwich at Christophe Louie, and top it off with a rose brioche.

How to spend the day: A New Yorker once told me the Marais feels like the West Village, and I suppose it does, in a way, with its cafes, galleries and boutiques. Spend the day wandering through its creative quarter with visits to unique stores like Merci for homewares, Boketto for cool vintage furniture, Melodies Graphiques for beautiful stationery and Thank God I’m a VIP for vintage fashion. When it’s lunch time, head to Chez Janou (definitely book ahead and save room for the famous chocolate mousse) or go for a charcuterie with wine at The Butcher of Paris in Marché des Enfants Rouges.

Afterward, take advantage of the free museums in the area. The Musée Carnavalet has a brilliant collection of artifacts showcasing Parisian history and one of the most beautiful museum bookstores, and at Maisons Victor Hugo, you can explore the personal items of the legendary poet and author.

Dinner: The Marais isn’t my favorite area for dinner unless you can snag a reservation at Parcelles (good luck!), so take the Metro (about 15 minutes to the Arts et Métiers stop) for natural wine and a snack (specifically the giant butter beans with mandarin oil) at tiny La Buvette wine bar, before walking five minutes to Le Servan for French food with an Asian twist. The seasonal menu changes all the time, so while I can’t recommend a specific dish, I can tell you I’ve never had anything here that I didn’t love. 

Saturday: Saint-Ouen, Montmarte, Belleville

Morning: The Marché aux Puces Saint-Ouen, or “Les Puces,” is the largest flea market in the world and it’s open on weekends and Mondays on the outskirts of Paris. To get there, head to Porte de Clignancourt on Line 4. Even if you don’t plan to shop, it’s worth visiting for the energy and people-watching alone; you’ll encounter all sorts of characters here, some of the most stylish people you’ve ever seen, as well as the most eccentric—a true representation of Parisian life. Go mid-morning to avoid the afternoon crowds, as it can get quite busy. Start with a coffee and flaky croissant at La Crème. Once energized, wander through Paul Bert for vintage fashion finds; Serpette for everything from antique kitchenware to designer luggage and elegant silk scarves; and Vernsaison for art. 

How to spend the day: Hop on the Metro to the Montmartre district, getting off at Barbès – Rochechouart (a 20-minute ride). While this is probably one of the most touristed areas in Paris, it’s very pretty and away from the overpriced brasseries and souvenir shops, you’ll find genuinely lovely things to do. Visit Picasso’s old studio Le Bateau Lavoir, peruse the Salvador Dalí museum and wander the winding streets to find the windmills that Van Gogh depicted in his paintings. Take a look around the fabric shops of St Pierre and then head to Halle St- Pierre, an Art Nouveau building with cool art exhibits and a lovely on-site cafe where you can stop for lunch. 

Evening: Belleville is one of my favorite neighborhoods in Paris because it feels super local. For cocktails with ingredient combinations you’ve likely never tried before, make a beeline for lively Combat. When the clock strikes “dinner time” take your pick between the bistro-style L’Orillion (the pork belly with apples and hazelnuts is a must), Le Cheval D’Or for Asian-style French and Italian classics, La Colline for a very neighborhood vibe (I dream about their fried sardines with padron peppers) or Candide, a welcoming place with excellent dishes like broccoli with anchovy butter and Normandy chicken with crispy fries. 

Wind your weekend up at Studio de l’Ermitage, a jazz club that hosts live music on Saturdays until late. Or, if jazz isn’t your thing, jump on the Metro and heard towards Porte de Saint-Ouen station (near the flea market) to get to Hasard Ludique, a buzzy, inclusive bar and dance hall that always has events on. It’s inside a former train station on Paris’ abandoned railway line and is a great place to meet locals. If you want to go there early, skip dinner in Belleville and go to Les deux Coupoles instead. They serve excellent bistro classics to a soundtrack of 80s music, and Hasard Ludique is just a 10-minute walk away.