November 21, 2024

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France itineraries: 5 routes to see the best of the country

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Sampling oysters on the northern coast of Normandy, sipping stellar vintages in Bordeaux and wandering the soul-stirring streets of Paris: the French holiday of your dreams awaits.

Whether you want to tick off the greatest hits or seek out more under-the-radar spots, these itineraries will take you all over the country. 

Ranging from a 3-day north-south journey from Calais to the Alps to a 9-day trip crisscrossing France to cover many highlights, these routes can be extended by adding extra days at various stops or combining multiple routes to make the perfect trip. 

This highlights tour will take you from the banks of the Seine through the amphitheater of Arles and to the beaches of Marseille. L–R: Amir Hamja for Lonely Planet, Adrienne Pitts for Lonely Planet, Theo Giacometti for Lonely Planet

1. Hit France’s most iconic sites 

Allow at least 9 days 
Distance: 1200km (746 miles) 

If you’ve always dreamed of seeing the best of France, this highlight-studded trip is for you. Expect world-class museums and châteaux, Roman relics and a dizzying dose of urban action by the sea. With more time, each stop can (and really should) easily be extended by a few days.

Paris: 2 days

The bird’s-eye city view from the Eiffel Tower – especially by night – is a breathtaking introduction to the capital that never gets old. Alternatively, gorge on the Paris panorama that unfurls from atop the Arc de Triomphe instead. Don’t miss a concert in the soul-stirring Sainte-Chapelle and the splendor of Versailles. Factor in ample time for cafe lounging, bistro lunches and Seine-side strolls.

Next stop: Take a train from Paris to Blois (1.5 hours). 

Blois: 1 day

Four centuries of French history come alive in the small town of Blois, the one-time feudal seat of powerful counts. Play the French flâneur in its old-town tangle of tuff mansions and half-timbered houses, then plunge into Château de Blois’ bloody history. Rent a bicycle or e-bike to devote the afternoon to the Renaissance confection Château de Chambord, 16km (10 miles) east.

Next stop: Drive from Blois to the Vezère Valley (4 hours). 

Vezère Valley: 1 day

Descending into caves painted by prehistoric artists is the subterranean thrill of this rural valley in the Dordogne. Learn the back story at the Musée National de Préhistoire in the pretty riverside village of Les Eyzies before plunging into nearby Grotte de Font de Gaume and later Lascaux in Montignac. Buy tickets for both in advance online. 

Next stop: Drive from the Vezère Valley to Carcassonne (3 hours and 15 minutes). 

Detour: Break up the journey by stopping in Toulouse to explore the Canal du Midi (add 1 day). 

Carcassonne: 1 day

The drive south through honey-colored Sarlat-la-Canéda and cliff-hanging Rocamadour is beautiful. Along the way, stop at a farm to buy a round of the eponymous goat cheese. After the wilderness of the southern Lot’s Causses de Quercy (a UNESCO Geopark), crowded Carcassonne can jar. Linger over a late lunch of cassoulet and save the vast fairy-tale citadel for sunset.

Next stop: Drive from Carcassonne to Pont du Gard (2 hours and 15 minutes). 

Pont du Gard: 1 day

Roman history buffs will have a field day today. Stop in Narbonne in Languedoc-Roussillon to pour over Roman history at the city’s world-class museum before continuing along the A9 to the awe-inspiring UNESCO World Heritage–listed Roman aqueduct. Bring your swimsuit for daredevil diving and high jumping from the rocks nearby after exploring the extraordinary monument.

Next stop: Drive from Pont du Gard to Arles (50 minutes). 

Arles: 1 day

Camargue capital Arles is a sultry southern showstopper. Stroll the golden-hued streets and riverside greenways that inspired Van Gogh, sit in the stalls where Romans once sat in the town’s lovingly restored amphitheater, and shop for Provençal produce at the Saturday-morning market. A taste of contemporary flair: the sensational, Frank Gehry-designed Fondation Luma

Next stop: Drive from Arles to Marseille (1.5 hours by car). 

Marseille: 2 days

Embrace the high-octane energy of Provence’s sprawling metropolis, stitched from an eclectic portfolio of museums and 111 wildly diverse “villages.” To get under its salty, weathered, Mistral-kissed skin, begin your DIY tour of Marseille with the fishermen at Vieux Port. Don’t forget the beaches along the coast and Les Goudes, an old-world launchpad for hikes and sea kayaks in Les Calanques.

Tourists sit on the sandy Dune du Pilat on the Bassin d’Arcachon at sunset.
Ride a bike to Dune du Pilat on the Bassin d’Arcachon. John Harper/Getty Images

2. Cruise along the Atlantic Coast

Allow at least 7 days 
Distance: 565km (351 miles) 

Pea-green vineyards, open-sea oyster farms and the golden contours of Europe’s largest sand dune shimmering in the sun: France’s wind-whipped Atlantic coast is one long parade of postcard views and tantalizing culinary stops. Driving allows you to motor off-track between villages and vines, but this highly appealing train itinerary is the greener route.

Nantes: 1 day

Atlantic Ocean and Loire River vibes mix in the old Breton capital Nantes. Catch mechanical bestiary at Les Machines de l’Île on a river island in the heart of town, visit the city’s château, and track the its edgy urban scene along the art-studded walking trail Le Voyage à Nantes. Grab lunchtime oysters at the city’s covered market and sunset drinks at a waterfront bar at Hangar à Bananes.

Next stop: Take a train from Nantes to La Rochelle (1 hour and 45 minutes). 

La Rochelle: 2 days

A prominent French sea port from the 14th to 17th centuries, La Rochelle remains one of France’s most attractive seafaring cities. Scale the sturdy stone heights of the city’s maritime towers for bird’s-eye city and coastal views. Enjoy spectacular seafood, enjoy an afternoon stroll to Cap Horn’s curious 16-sided lighthouse and spend one day cycling around breezy Île de Ré.

Next stop: Take a train from La Rochelle to Bordeaux (3 hours). 

Bordeaux: 1 day

A day spent feasting on exceedingly fine architecture, art, food and some of the country’s most prestigious wines in Bordeaux is a day well spent indeed. The historic part of the city forms the world’s largest urban UNESCO World Heritage Site – yet Bordeaux’s flush of contemporary museums and edgy art spaces are equally captivating.

Next stop: Take a train from Bordeaux to Arcachon (1.5 hours). 

Arcachon: 2 days

Old-fashioned seaside charm is the order of the day in palm- and pine-tree-scented Arcachon. Whittle away a blissful day flopping on the golden-sand beach, sampling seafood with sea views and riding boats across the bay to oyster-rich Cap Ferret and Île aux Oiseaux. The bike ride to Dune du Pilat is as exhilarating as the colossal sand dune itself.

Next stop: Take a train from Arcachon to Bayonne (3 hours). 

Bayonne: 1 day

Seriously good chocolate, ham and Basque buzz make the small but larger-than-life French Basque capital of Bayonne well worth lingering in. Delve into its rainbow of half-timbered houses and get to know Basque culture at the Musée Basque et de l’Histoire de Bayonne. Then overdose on France’s finest hot chocolate and shop the lively market. 

Detour: The glitzy seaside resort and surf capital of Biarritz is just a bus ride away (add 5 hours).

Wander the Promenade des Anglais in Nice, the farmers markets of Aix-en-Provence and kayak through the Gorges du Verdon.
Wander the Promenade des Anglais in Nice, savor the farmers markets of Aix-en-Provence and kayak through the Gorges du Verdon. L–R: Violette Franchi for Lonely Planet, Adrian Hancu/Getty Images, Shutterstock

3. Explore the sunny south of France

Allow at least 7 days 
Distance: 385km (239 miles) 

If there’s one region to take your open-top convertible for a spin, it’s the flashy Riviera, and Nice’s legendary corniches. This itinerary – best avoided in July and August when coastal roads are clogged to bursting – whisks you from the glamorous heights of the Côte d’Azur to the wild, untamed gorges of northern Provence.

Nice: 2 days

Exceptional modern-art museums, street markets, emblematic Mediterranean beaches (pebbles!) and a rabbit-warren Old Town: Riviera queen Nice simply sizzles. Best up, its traditional cuisine is having a moment as city’s chefs elevate it to semi-gastronomic status. So be sure to pack in three square meals a day.

Next stop: Travel from Nice to Menton (35 minutes by train, up to 1 hour by car along Moyenne or Grande Corniche). 

Detour: Ride the “Train des Merveilles” with locals into the Vallée de Roya – a scenic trip past gorge, forest and waterfall into the Côte d’Azur backcountry.

Menton: 1 day

The last taste of France before Italy, Menton has got its groove back thanks to its juicy lemons and star chef Mauro Colagreco. Enjoy a fascinating guided tour of a working lemon farm, followed by lunch in the terraced groves, at La Ferme des Citrons. Afterwards amble around the Old Town, admiring its miniature microclimate through its gardens. 

Next stop: Drive from Menton to St-Tropez (2 hours). 

Detour: Playground of the super-rich, the pint-sized principality of Monaco is next door (20 minutes by train). 

St-Tropez: 1 day

The drive along the coastal Corniche de l’Estérel toward St-Tropez is what Riviera motoring is all about: a serpentine road, first inaugurated by the Touring Club de France in 1903, that weaves between the flaming-red rock of Massif de l’Estérel and the sun-dappled turquoise sea. Mythical fishing village turned over-touristed hot spot St-Tropez is equally glam.

Next stop: Drive from St-Tropez to Bormes-les-Mimosas (1 hour). 

Bormes-les-Mimosas: 4 hours

Every road spiraling spectacularly to Bormes-les-Mimosas promises a heart-in-mouth ride. The inland D98 nosedives into the forested Massif des Maures; the coastal D559 tangos past sea gardens in Domaine du Rayol; and the Route des Crêtes is scenic driving on steroids. Catch your breath later over lunch and exquisite flower displays in the medieval village. 

Next stop: Drive from Bormes-les-Mimosas to Aix-en-Provence (1 hour and 45 minutes).  

Detour: The Route du Mimosa driving itinerary from Bormes-les-Mimosas to perfume capital Grasse is at its blooming best in winter (add 1 day). 

Aix-en-Provence: 1 day

With its grandiose architecture, elegant avenues shaded by plane trees, profusion of cafes spilling onto sun-baked streets and collection of sculpted stone fountains, Aix-en-Provence encapsulates that classic Provençal vibe. Follow in the footsteps of homegrown painter Paul Cézanne around town, admire art in the Musée Granet and shop at the market.

Next stop: Drive from Aix-en-Provence to Saignon (1 hour). 

Saignon: 4 hours

Chic hilltop villages in the Luberon never fail to delight. Tiny Saignon, perched on the top of a hill above main town Apt, is the crème de la crème of Provencal villages perchés. Meander its narrow lanes, taking in limestone houses, its château and the épicerie (corner shop) selling goods from local “micro-producers” to hungry visitors. Then settle in at a table at one of several memorable lunch spots.

Next stop: Drive from Saignon to Gorges du Verdon (1.5 hours).

Gorges du Verdon: 1 day

Get set for heart palpitations. Home to eagles, vultures and wild boars, Provence’s Gorges du Verdon is France’s most spectacular canyon. Drive snail-slow from Moustiers Ste-Marie to take in the canyon panorama from the vertigo-inducing, cliffside D952. In places, the walls of the deep ravine rise to a dizzying 700m (2297ft) – twice the height of the Eiffel Tower. 

Mont St-Michel at mouth of Couesnon River at low tide.
Mont St-Michel at mouth of Couesnon River at low tide. Justin Foulkes for Lonely Planet

4. Enjoy Breton oysters and Norman cheese

Allow at least 7 days 
Distance: 500km (311 miles) 

Buckle your seat belt and loosen the belt around your waist in anticipation of the copious amounts of oysters and cheese you’ll end up devouring on this epicurean road trip through both Brittany and Normandy. Tranquil beaches and mythical islands provide a perfect “exhilarating sea air” pairing. 

Carnac: 3 hours

Begin where it all began – at the standing stones of Carnac. And take your time: these monuments date to the 5th century BCE and compose the world’s highest concentration of menhirs. Guided tours shine light on myths and legends surrounding the mystifying megaliths; off trail, you can hike through the surrounding woods to soak up Carnac’s primordial energy.

Next stop: Travel from Carnac to Quiberon (30 minutes by car, 50 minutes by boat). 

Belle Île: 2 days

Sail from Quiberon on the southern tip of 4km(2.5-mile)-long Presqu’île de Quiberon to Belle Île. This ravishing Breton island lives up to its belle (beautiful) name: think wild coastline, sandy beaches, traditional fishing villages painted in pretty pastel shades and a fun dining-drinking scene in main settlement Le Palais. Rent a moped to razz around.

Next stop: Drive from Quiberon to St-Malo (3 hours). 

St-Malo: 1 day

The enthralling, mast-filled port town of St-Malo is a dramatic sight. With one of the world’s greatest tidal ranges, brewing storms under blackened skies often bring waves that lash the ramparts ringing this beautiful walled city. Privateers ruled the roost here in the 17th century – and their ghosts linger in the old city’s cobbled lanes and opulent private mansions. 

Next stop: Drive from St-Malo to Mont St-Michel (50 minutes).

Mont St-Michel: half a day 

There is no more dramatic introduction to Normandy than this mysterious abbey-island. Celtic mythology claims Mont St-Michel was a sea tomb to which souls of the dead were sent. Keenly feel its history as you approach – barefoot across rippled sand with a hiking guide is best. Stay late to see the abbey at sunset. Dine on local foraged produce and sleep over at Auberge Sauvage, which has a Michelin “green star.” 

Next stop: Drive from Mont St-Michel to Cabourg (1 hour and 45 minutes). 

Detour: Oyster fiends should head to the famous oyster market in Cancale, a 45-minute drive west.

Cabourg: 1 day

Holiday like Proust in this enchanting seaside town on Normandy’s art-strewn Côte Fleurie (“flowered coast”). Well-heeled neighbors Deauville and Trouville-sur-Mer grab the limelight, but Cabourg delivers with an immersive museum that plunges visitors into the Belle Époque. End the day with a sunset boardwalk stroll from Cap Cabourg to Plage Le Home Varaville.

Next stop: Drive from Cabourg to Pays d’Auge (30 minutes). 

Pays d’Auge: 2 days

Motoring inland raises the curtain on a different Normandy, a fertile green tapestry of apple orchards, handsome half-timbered villages and fields dotted with cows whose milk goes into creamy Camembert. In two days of getting lost along quiet country lanes in Pays d’Auge, you can learn how Calvados is made at a farm distillery, make a pilgrimage to the village of Camembert and dine exceedingly well everywhere.

A light dusting of snow covers buildings on the edge of a canal in France's Annecy.
The village of Annecy in France. Getty Images

5. Take the Eurostar to Calais – and journey on to the Alps

Allow at least 3 days 
Distance: 985km (612 miles) 

Skiers en route to the French Alps from England typically drive this route from the trans-Channel port of Calais in 8 hours or so, stopping overnight in Reims or Troyes. When you have time to spare, take your foot off the pedal to discover a kaleidoscope of cabin-lined beaches, Champagne cellars and world-class vineyards.

Calais: 3 hours

Head off the car ferry or rail shuttle and into town. Give a nod to Rodin’s famous sculpture of the town’s burghers posing in front of the town’s Flemish-Renaissance town hall. Hit the sandy plage and take a tour of the beachfront inside Calais’ fantastical, giant mechanical dragon. Catch DJ sets, barbecues and themed soirées at its restaurant L’Antre du Dragon.

Next stop: Drive from Calais to the Côte d’Opale (20 minutes). 

Côte d’Opale: 2 hours

Named for the interplay of grays and blues in the sea and sky, this stretch of coastline is an artistic masterpiece. Ogle at brilliant views of the Bay of Wissant, Flemish countryside and the distant white chalk cliffs of Dover from windswept Cap Blanc Nez. By the water’s edge in Wissant, dip your toes in the sea from the wide-at-low-tide beach. 

Next stop: Drive from Côte d’Opale to Aÿ (3 hours and 15 minutes). 

Aÿ: half a day

Trade in the traditional overnight stop in Reims – home to France’s finest art deco architecture, a glorious Gothic cathedral and world-famous bubbly – for lesser-known Aÿ instead. Enjoy its trio of world-class Champagne houses at a slower pace (and don’t miss the state-of-the-art Champagne museum Pressoria). Then grab boulangerie bites for a cheap lunch on the go.

Next stop: Drive from Aÿ to Dijon (2 hours and 45 minutes). 

Dijon: 1 day

The dazzling Cité International de la Gastronomie et du Vin, new in 2022, is reason alone to linger in Dijon, the handsome seat of the Duchy of Burgundy and modern Burgundy’s gastronomic powerhouse. Food-themed exhibitions, a food court and a cooking-and-wine school at La Cité cook up ample entertainment and tasting opportunities. Tasting Bourgogne wine is non-negotiable (spitting allowed for drivers). 

Next stop: Drive from Dijon to Annecy (3 hours). 

Detour: France’s youngest national park, off-grid Parc National de Forêts, hugs Dijon’s northern fringe and is perfect for a forest fix.

Annecy: 2 hours

Depending where you’re heading in the Alps, you’re not far away now (count an hour to Chamonix). Get in the Alpine mood with a chestnut, génépi– or pine-flavored ice cream from vintage ice-cream parlor Glacier des Alpes, buried in Annecy’s romantic, Venetian-style old town. Savor magnificent lake views from the vast lawn that tumbles down to the water.



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